Techniques To Keep Your Boat Running Well And Looking Good
GENERAL:
The idea that factory parts are better is valid, especially on electrical components, starters, and lubricants. A little more now in many cases will save you a lot later. Do not use automotive parts for marine applications!
Check behind your prop occasionally for fishing line or any other foreign objects. They can get wound around the prop shaft and cut the lower unit seal. This can allow water to get in and cause internal drive unit problems.
In colder weather, store your boat with the lower unit trimmed down. If you don't, water can get into the bottom of your drive unit casing through the prop opening. If this happens and the water freezes, it can bust open your lower unit.
Disconnect your battery when storing your boat for long periods of time. If there is any draw on the battery while it's sitting, it can be drained too low to recover when you resume use.
Always remove your drain plug when parking your boat. Rainwater can easily fill your bilge enough to affect mechanical parts like starters, trim lines, etc. Even if you have a bilge pump, they only work as long as the battery is charged, which can be a very short period of time.
Boat covers should be secured tightly and checked often if possible in the winter. Any time you expose cloth to weather, regardless of its intended design, it may be subject to damage.
Every year replace spark plugs and fuel-water separators. Clean fuel filter, change lower unit oil, grease engine/drive via the zerk fittings and inspect everything.
If used in saltwater replace your impeller every 2 years. If used in freshwater replace every 3 years.
Pull and repack wheel bearings on the trailer every 2 years.
AFTER EVERY TRIP:
Flush the engine each time your boat is used in saltwater. Use "earmuffs" over the water intake and a freshwater hose. Tilt engine and rinse underneath to prevent salt buildup.
Use Startron or Stabil Ethanol Formula with every gas fill up.
Wash the entire boat and trailer using soap and water. Meguiars Gel Wash and Wax are what we recommend. Do not use bleach or SoftScrub except in emergencies. Re-wax the affected area after using these harsh products.
Scrub decks with a non-skid cleaner (Mar Pro - Easy On, Easy Off works well.)
Dry all the metal, glass and flat surfaces. Standing water will leave mineral deposits and etch surfaces.
Cover your boat to protect it from sun and rain.
STERN DRIVE / INBOARD MOTORS:
Winterizing is necessary for sterndrive/inboard motors. Contradictory to some beliefs, North Carolina's climate will damage your motor. Simply draining the block and manifolds is not enough because water is still trapped in some areas of the block. If this trapped water is not mixed with an anti-freeze solution, it can freeze and bust numerous engine components such as intake and exhaust manifolds, blocks, heat exchangers, drain fittings (if you're lucky), etc. Inboard motors such as Mercruiser and Volvo Sterndrives should be winterized at the end of each boating season. Without doing this, you're taking a chance of your motor freezing.
OUTBOARD MOTORS:
When parking your outboard motor for lengthy periods of time, you should mix some fuel stabilizer in with your fuel, then run the motor for 5-10 minutes in order to mix the fuel and stabilizer in the carburetor. This prevents the gelling of fuel within the carburetor jets. This practice could save you from having to rebuild your carburetors.
Winterizing is always a good idea if you're not going to use your boat in the winter. If your outboard is going to sit for months at a time, running the fuel out of the carburetors is not enough to sufficiently protect it.
